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Europe: Major Take-Aways from Sustainable Cosmetics Summit


Denmark: Organic Meat & Fairtrade Product Sales Soar


Russia: Natural Cosmetic Stores Mushrooming




Europe: Major Take-Aways from Sustainable Cosmetics Summit

The European edition of the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit drew to a successful close at the end of October, bringing together 140 delegates from the beauty industry. Discussions over the 3-day summit centred on sustainability metrics, ethical labels, green materials and digital marketing.

Bruce Lourie, a leading Canadian environmentalist and author, kicked off the summit with a keynote on safe cosmetics. He called for a clean-up of personal care formulations, stating the possible health risks of contentious chemicals. Subsequent speakers looked at the practical use of metrics for sustainability. Claude Fromageot stated metrics have improved the environmental and social footprint of all Yves Rocher products. The company’s sustainability activities include growing organic ingredients, ethical sourcing, eco-design of packaging, and waste management.

Stephane Lecoutiere from BASF gave details of its new Sustainable Solution Steering approach. It categorises cosmetic ingredients according to their sustainability credentials, with accelerators providing highest value. Neal’s Yard Remedies shared its experiences in becoming the first carbon neutral retailer in the UK. With over half its carbon footprint from its premises, the company has built an eco-factory to minimise energy use. Martin Clemesha from Braskem showed how cosmetic brands can reduce their packaging impacts by using green polyethylene made from sugar cane.

Novel sources of active ingredients were featured in the Green Materials session. Chris Kilham, Sustainability Ambassador of Naturex, showed how trees can become a source of new actives. Quillaja and Dragon’s Blood were given as examples of two actives with green credentials. Marinova outlined the opportunities provided by marine extracts; the Australian company is producing actives from hand-harvested organic wild seaweed. Active Concepts highlighted the use of plant cell technology, whilst JRS showed how cellulose is a viable green alternative to polyethylene beads in exfoliants.

A keynote from Peter Brändle, Regional Director of Western Europe of Weleda, started the Ethical Labels session. With a proliferation in the number of labelling schemes, Brändle said it was more important for cosmetic brands to have a green ethos than adopt multiple logos. Urtekram highlighted the issues involved in adopting various standards; the Danish company has adopted the Ecocert / Cosmos, Nordic Swan, Vegan Society, Fairtrade and Asthma Allergy Certified labels. According to their R&D manager Tom Hornshøj-Møller, multiple standards create too many restrictions with little overlap between certification criteria. Amarjit Sahota, President of Organic Monitor, called for some harmonisation of existing standards otherwise proliferation could dampen consumer demand. Citing Organic Monitor research, logos & symbols were no guarantee of success in the increasing competitive natural cosmetics market.

The Digital Marketing session explored the opportunities provided by social media. With over 70% of European consumers now internet users, David Dewilde from Disko Paris believes cosmetic brands can’t risk lagging behind the digital revolution. He stated a common mistake for brands is to focus on the product (and not the people) in digital marketing activities. Richard Stacy echoed this sentiment, stating social media enables brands to undertake individualised marketing. He believes algorithms could make marketing redundant in the future. LoveLula shared its experiences in online retailing for natural and organic cosmetics; the company has added traditional bricks ‘n’ mortar retailing to complement its online business.

The summit shed light on some of the sustainability shortcomings in the cosmetics industry. With the highest environmental impact of many products at use phase, what can be done to encourage responsible consumption of cosmetics? How can consumers be encouraged to undertake sustainable purchases? How can greater traceability be provided in ingredient supply chains? What can be done to reduce the packaging footprint of cosmetic products? How can the technical issues of using natural ingredients be overcome? What green alternatives are emerging to replace contentious synthetic materials? Such questions will be addressed in the 2016 editions of the Sustainable Cosmetics Summit…

North American edition:            12-14 May, New York
Latin American edition:             14-16 September, São Paulo
Asia-Pacific edition:                 14-15 November, Hong Kong
European edition:                    24-26 October, Paris

More details are on the website

See the European summit pictures here


Source: News Release




Denmark: Healthy Growth in Organic Meats & Fairtrade Products

Friland, the largest organic meat company in Scandinavia, reported a 7 percent rise in sales to DKK 710 million (USD 101 million) in 2015.

Friland's record-high sales has given an additional fee of DKK 17.23 per kilogramme of delivered meat to organic pork producers who are shareholders in Friland. Organic beef producers have received additional DKK 5.85 per kilogramme.

Henrik Biilmann, CEO at Friland, says the company cannot meet strong demand for organic meat this year. He says a number of measures have been introduced to acquire more organic meat. He expects the company will also have to turn down customers in 2016, since it takes time to raise organic meat production. Friland is a subsidiary of Danish Crown.

Fairtrade product sales are also growing at a healthy rate in Denmark. According to Fairtrade Mærket, sales increased by 12 percent to DKK 681 million (USD 104 million) in 2014. Sales are expected to continue to grow, with 96 new Fairtrade products launched in the latter half of 2014.

OM Comment
Organic and Fairtrade products are very popular in Scandinavia, partly because of the high level of ethical consumerism in the region. In the personal care and cleaning product industries, the Nordic Swan and EU Eco-label are highly established. Indeed, Scandinavians are some of the highest spenders on green products in the world.

Related Report: #1402-60 The Nordic Market for Natural & Organic Cosmetics

Source: Dansk Handelsblad / Jyllands-Posten / OM




Russia: Natural Cosmetic Stores Mushrooming

A number of stores specialising in natural & organic cosmetics are opening in Russia.

The Organic Shop retail chain, which specialises in organic cosmetics, has launched a new outlet in Moscow. The store has an extensive range of natural and organic cosmetics; brands include Natura Siberica, Dr. Haushka, Lavera, Melvita, Skin Blossom, Bema Cosmetic, etc.

The leading Italian natural cosmetics company L'Erbolario has opened a concept store in Moscow. The outlet is in the Afimall City shopping centre, and is operated by the Erbarus company. Another store is scheduled to open in the Europolis shopping centre in St. Petersburg. Six more store openings are planned in 2016.

Erborian, the Korean-French brand of natural cosmetics, also opened a store in Moscow in October. The outlet is in the Afimall City shopping and entertainment centre.

Organic Monitor sees these new store openings reflecting the wider trend in the global market. Concept stores specialising in natural & organic cosmetics are mushrooming in almost every region, set up by established brands, investors and start-ups. The challenge is differentiation: how can retailers differentiate their cosmetic ranges from conventional as well as natural brands?

Related Article: Food and Cosmetics Convergence Raises Sustainability Concerns  

Source: Shop and Mall / OM













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